The Fundamentals: Mood and Market

I remember way back in first year (well at least it feels like way back), the concept of a 'mood' board to summarise fashion was a little confusing. I always had such trouble with it; getting the images and words right, getting the layout out right...needless to say I could never get it quite right. What I have learnt this year is that it's just about doing it in your own way, in your own style. I'd never been one for fancy photoshop skills and all that jazz, so I decided to stick to what I knew and kept it simple.
A few key images, if right, can set the mood of a collection. I like to add a few word descriptions in too, for the words you just can't find images for. I like to put in a personal image like this photo from Barcelona, and contrast it with a fashion image that summarises my designs best. Then other images like the sunflower for example, help to create an uplifting, summery and chilled feeling to the collection.

Colour is a great way to distinguish mood, which is why I always like to put my colour palette in my mood board. As we all know, colours have connotations with different feelings and emotions, therefore including colour in a mood board helps tie together all the images and create an overall wholeness to the collection.


A market board on the other hand brings us back to the reality of fashion as an industry. Some would say the most important part of fashion is how it sells; if the market isn't right, it won't sell. Market focuses on where in the fashion market clothes are aimed at, from high street to couture. It then creates the 'ideal' target market, whether it be male or female, of a specific age and the context of which the clothes will be worn. In-depth research would look at the 'type' of person in your market, suggesting a personality, interests, and lifestyle, as this can all affect how someone chooses to dress.

My market has developed from my current collection, which was smart, sophisticated day wear and outerwear for Autumn/Winter. For this Spring/Summer collection, the clothes are slightly more casual and simple. I thought Zara would be the ideal high street store to suit my designs, as they have a strong focus on simplicity and classic styles for my suggested age range. I have also focused my designs to be suitable for holiday wear; something that's practical but stylish and comfortable all at the same time.

I hope you have enjoyed all my uni work updates. With our fashion show at Free Range in London next week, more photos alongside my general chit-chat will no doubt follow shortly!

Breathe Easy for Summer '13 Fashion

I know we haven't even seen 2012's summer yet, but when you work in the fashion industry, you have no choice but to work at least a year ahead. Yes, it gets a bit confusing sometimes, especially when trends follow through from one year to another, but it does feel great to be ahead of the game, just that bit. (Little tip, peplums are still on trend for next summer, so make an investment).

So here's my mini collection developing from my current catwalk collection, taking themes and inspiration from Barcelona through to next summer and its key trends. My market is still aimed at around 25 to 35 year old women, but focused more on casual summer holiday wear, that's easy to mix and match, and more importantly is practical for those active holiday-goers. 

As you can see, a lightweight jacket and cape are part of the outfits, taking care of those cooler summer days or spots of rain. (British weather was an influence when designing this collection, as you can probably guess from my frequent references to it recently...) Being in off-whites and pale greys,  the outerwear pieces are easy to put with any outfit.

Traveller chic and safari prints were also influences on this collection, mainly on colour and fabric choices. The sunflower yellow, dirt brown and jungle green reflect this, balancing out the paler colours in the palette. Not only this, but yellow is key for next summer, and totally oozes 'summer', even if we can't see it!

Maxi skirts with wrap-over features are also something I have highlighted, as well as cargo shorts and loose shirts and tops for comfort. Design features that I have tried to carry through from my current collection are pleats, and column-like style lines, while looser fits and feature patch pockets are new.

Working on this 'What's next?' collection has been a great insight for reinventing collections for different seasons, something that many designers do to some extent. With some new inspiration it's surprising how collections can differ making only a few changes, to colour, fabric or even a new target market. My next post will focus on the mood of my collection, so  stick around!

Shoes are a girl's best friend. Okay, maybe not these ones...

For anyone that knows me well, they would know that I love my shoes. Heels to be exact. Really high heels to be even more exact. In the last few years, it seems that the height of heels has to continued to grow, and when we think they can't possibly get any higher...they most definitely do. In some cases, it's just plain ridiculous. Example one, McQueen's 'Armidillo' shoes.

These 10 inch (yes, 10 inch) hoof-like inventions are typical of McQueen's unhealthy need to create jaw-dropping fashion, and lets be honest, I expect no less. Probably the most impractical shoe I have ever seen, and in no way do they fulfil the most important role of the heel - to look graceful and feminine.

Example 2, Lady Gaga (well it had to be, didn't it?) in the clumpiest, most unflattering pair of shoes known to man.

She looks ridiculous. I have made my point.

Example 3, the 'Pointe shoe' heel.

One word. VILE. What were Louboutin thinking when creating these 8 inch things. Said to be inspired by ballet shoes...well yes, that is clear when they ARE ballet shoes, just with thin sticks stuck to the end of them. Okay, so they were made to raise money for the English National Ballet blah blah blah...but still, just no.

So, to cure bleeding eyes, I have found my top five heels on the high street that are a little more manageable. At 5, these cute wedges from Dune. Wedges are in my opinion the safest option - a little more surface area is always a good thing!

Number 4 - Stunning stilettos from Topshop. Major love for petrol blue at the moment.

These River Island strappy shoes are at 3; really summery and I love the print.

At 2, an exciting brand at New Look called Chinese Laundry have created these vibrant peep toes (yes I'm a sucker for animal print)

And finally, the shoes that I HAVE to buy before my loan runs out are these...

...GOD BLESS AMERICA!

Oh and before you go, just an image to remind you all to be sensible out there, even the best of us falter at the hands of unscrupulous high heels...

Pyjamas? Come again?

In the style of Harry Hill - "Most ridiculous fashion trend of the week"...


Goes to the pyjama look.

 Most trends I can understand, even if I don't like them, but this, really?? Reading in the Guardian last week that the trend has taken off in the celeb world was one thing, but believe it or not, it's set to be hitting Topshop very soon as well. The likes of Rihanna, Stella McCartney and Tilda Swinton have been spotted in 'pyjama chic' (if you can actually call it that), but lets face it, just because they can maybe/mildly/sort of pull it off, it doesn't mean the rest of us can. Rihanna; well she could go out wearing anything and manage to look good; Tilda Swinton has an...eclectic sense of style to say the least, so the pyjama thing really isn't a surprising look on her. I personally can not see the appeal of getting out of bed, showering, getting ready...and then putting a pair of pyjamas back on.

So the comfort thing is a plus side to this look, which you may think I shouldn't be complaining about. I mean how often is a trend so easy to wear and actually comfortable at the same time. Don't get me wrong, I'm not some sort of masochist who loves getting horrendous blisters and cuts from wearing heels, and enjoys not being able to breathe in a vast majority of my going out dresses, but hey! that's just how it is. Personally, I would rather be in mild agony to look great wearing that, than a pair of pyjamas on a night out.

So here's the big one - Comfort v.s. Style. Yes, you can get both (maxi dresses are the ultimate winner in that category) but it isn't easy. So yes, suggesting that the pyjama trend can tick both boxes would be great, but if you ask me, it should be a big fat CROSS in the style box.

The other worry I have here, is how the likes of Primark are going to interpret this trend. Primark are generally bang on the mark for following high street trends, but sometimes, they can be really off. I can just see rails of pyjama bottoms being moved from the nightwear section to day wear, and the unsuspecting population of shoppers being none the wiser. I mean I have actually seen people go out in their pyjamas. A memorable time was when I was working an evening in Tesco Pharmacy, when two teenagers turned up in full pyjama attire, slippers to top it off. If getting dressed is really that much effort, just don't go out at all. (I will add at this point there was a regrettable occasion when I went to Burger King in my pyjama bottoms (pink with monkeys on), but it was for a JOKE. However no one else really took on the whole joke thing, so I ended up just looking like a fool...)

So to conclude! I think this pyjama trend is ridiculous (apologies to anyone that likes it), a wee bit lazy, and I hope it disappears just as quickly as it did from my virtual wardrobe wishlist.

A Point of Inspiration

Designer inspiration is essential when designing. After getting initial research, ideas for mood and colour, and getting trend forecasts, I move onto looking at recent designer collections for further input. If you have read my previous post, you will know I am looking to design for Spring/Summer 2013; a smart/casual collection that I can see fitting the tourist market of holiday makers.

Burberry Prorsum (sorry if you are getting bored of me talking about them, but their designs never fail to impress) are the first port of call, as for Spring/Summer 2012 they quite rightly remembered their British background and designed an appropriate number of parkas and lightweight jackets into their collection.

The jackets are quite casual and over-sized, but are teamed with fitted skirts and tailored pieces that give the right balance. Bold prints and stripes are also scattered through the collection, which would look great for a 'traveller' style that's easy but stylish. The colour palette is also great; the orange and mustard colours are great accents against the duller khakis and browns.


Secondly, I looked at Issey Miyake; great designer, but also I just like saying his name out loud a few times because I like how it sounds... The pattern cutting here is more innovative, creating new shapes and lines but keeping the contrast between tailored and sporty styles. Lines are slanted and generally curved, making the collection softer and more feminine. I love the little jacket; the three-quarter length sleeve keeps it light and would be perfect for a cooler spring day.

Lastly, Michael Kors recent Spring/Summer collection links directly to the safari-like trend for next year. The camouflage colour palette is clear, mixed with animal prints and skins. Lightweight jackets and ponchos are teamed with original cargo shorts and buttoned shirts. The wrap-over skirt is great and fortunately carrying through to next year. I like the idea of tiering and layering which will become central when I begin designing. And now to the hard part...



Never trust the British weather.

Here in Britain we have a fashion conundrum that some of you may associate with. It's a beautiful sunny day, and I'm feeling the need to crack the sunnies out. However, it is still cold outside and I'm fearful to shed the beloved winter coat that I have been living in for about 3 months now. Hence, the dilemma. It's just not right wearing sunglasses with a coat! Damn you British weather, for being difficult, unreliable, and frankly, for making fashion styling decisions such a chore.

When researching trends and forecasts for Spring/Summer 2013, it became clear that it's very important to consider the weather when designing clothes and pushing certain trends for different seasons. When you're out and about and suddenly black clouds in the sky form around you, you'll be glad that you stuffed that waterproof poncho in your bag. And lets be honest, it's not always going to be "shorts and t-shirt" weather. When deciding on the trend of 'Into the Wild', mixed with a bit of traveller chic for my 'What's next?' collection, the importance of trench coats, lightweight ponchos and slouchy long skirts fitted in with the practical side of my design ethos. The outerwear garments show a development from the waterproof capes that are in my current Autumn/Winter collection, which is great in showing an ongoing theme throughout my work.

When it comes to fabrics and colour palettes, weather should also be considered. Fabrics are lighter in weight than for winter garments, but can still protect from the disconcerting weather. The fabrics I would like to work with are natural, and have the ability to be smart and casual. I chose this colour palette as the shades are toned down, soft and fit with the relaxed garment style.

N.B. Always stash a poncho in your bag. Don't wear sunglasses with a coat.

 



'CATALAN EXPOSURE' - Watch this space!

So I've had the blog up and running for over a month now, but have neglected to spill the beans on what I'm up to for my final collection at uni. I focused all my research on the cultured city of Barcelona, mainly using the architecture as my inspiration. A lot of the architecture was designed by Antoni Gaudi, a man of many talents who designed several landmarks in the city, including Park Guell, Casa Batllo and his most famous piece of work, La Sagrada Familia. This exquisite Roman Catholic church is formed by a collection of religious sculptures, geometric patterns, and intricate carvings all creating a gothic atmosphere. What you probably wouldn't realise is that it still isn't complete; Gaudi died in 1926 with only a quarter of the church finished. The aim is for it to be completed by 2026, 100 years after Gaudi's death.

The textures on the buildings really inspired me, looking at the contrasts from the exterior and interior. The branching columns, pillars and irregular shapes all helped me when designing my collection.

After 8 months of work towards it so far, I am happy to say that it has all come together after finishing my first outfit for our photoshoot! I don't want to give too much away before the show so this will be it on the degree front, but this is part of an Autumn/Winter Collection of Ready to Wear outer-coats, waterproof capes, and smart daywear garments. Trend research for the coming winter season featured capes primarily, as well as earthy textures and feature fastenings which I have incorporated into my collection. Here is the first outcome - feedback muchly appreciated!